SKETCHING SERENDIPITY: A BACKPACK, A SKETCHBOOK, AND EASTERN GERMANY’S HIDDEN CORNERS

Eastern Germany Sketching Tour: Berlin, Leipzig & Dresden Travel Art Guide

Imagine stepping off a train, a sketchbook tucked under your arm, with nothing but a thirst for adventure and a handful of pencils. Letting chance direct you, and your gut be your guide. That’s precisely the intent I had, when I began my journey at Prague’s Hlavní Nádraží main train station. No itinerary, no rigid plans – just a backpack, a sketching kit, and the thrill of letting fate decide my destinations. This would be a sketching adventure, a metaphorical coin flip at each station, that would, with the will of fate, eventually lead me through the captivating landscapes of Eastern Germany. A journey where the rhythm of the rails became the beat of my artistic exploration.

The grand hall of Hlavní Nádraží, with its bustling energy, became my launchpad. I scanned the departure boards, a sense of anticipation building.

And then, a name caught my eye: Berlin. Without hesitation, I purchased a ticket. Germany wasn’t in my initial plans, not that I even had a plan, but the allure of revisiting that fascinating city was too strong to resist. It was as if the destination name on the departure board called to me.

Berlin’s Historical Canvas: Sketching the Past and Present

So my first stop was Berlin, a city pulsating with history and creativity.

Berlin is a city that wears its history on its sleeve, yet pulsates with a relentless energy. Scars of the past, like the remnants of the Berlin Wall, stand alongside gleaming modern architecture, a testament to the city’s resilience and constant reinvention. It’s a place where you can wander through poignant memorials one moment and find yourself swept up in a vibrant street art scene the next. The echoes of history are palpable, from the Brandenburg Gate, a symbol of reunification, to the Reichstag, a powerful reminder of Germany’s democratic spirit.

But Berlin is also a city looking firmly towards the future, a hub of creativity, innovation, and a place where different cultures collide and create something new. Though for me, it will always be associated with the mid 80s to early 90s. And for this reason, as I explored the city’s streets, my playlist echoed to Nena’s “99 Luftballons.”

With my soundtrack in place, I quickly wasted no time in capturing its iconic landmarks:

Brandenburg Gate: A Symbol of Reunification

The stoic columns, bathed in the soft morning light, but battered by some strong winds, became the subject of my first sketch. I felt the echoes of history as I drew, the gate a silent witness to countless moments. It was a moment of connection, between my art, and the history it contained. As often happens, a small crowd formed around me at one point, something I have got more used to.

Plain air sketch of the Brandenburg Gate, Berlin, using pencil, color pencil, and ink.
Known as the ‘Brandenburger Tor’ in German, it was built by Carl G Langhans in the late 18th century, and has been an iconic backdrop to much of Germany’s recent history (Berlin, Germany)

Checkpoint Charlie: Echoes of a Divided City

A stark reminder of a divided past, the checkpoint’s weathered facade and iconic signage were etched into my sketchbook. The sharp contrast of the past and the present day was felt as I sketched. As if I glimpsed a time portal into the past.

Sketch of Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin, showing the guardhouse and signage.
Also known as ‘Checkpoint C,’ this was a famous crossing point along the Berlin Wall, between East and West Berlin (Berlin, Germany)

Reichstag Building: Modernity Meets History

The modern glass dome against the backdrop of the historic building offered a fascinating contrast, which I tried to capture with my pencil. The blending of old and new, just like my journey, mixing the planned, with the random.

Sketch of the Reichstag Building in Berlin, highlighting the glass dome and historic architecture.
Built in the late 19th century, on the left bank of the River Spree, it was previously the central seat of power for the German Empire, and the Weimar Republic. After being destroyed in a fire (1933), it was eventually restored in the 1960s, and then redesigned by Norman Foster in the mid to late 1990s. It is now the home of the German Bundestag (German Federal Parliament).

Berlin Cathedral: A Study in Grandeur

The grandeur of the cathedral, its intricate details, and the sense of peace it exuded made for a captivating sketching session. The quiet within its walls, a welcome contrast to the city’s vibrant energy. But once again the wind picked up, and sketching became a battle of wills, between nature and I, over the movement of the paper.

Sketch of the Berlin Cathedral, capturing its architectural grandeur.
Built in the late 19th century, in the Renaissance and Baroque Revival styles, it is the largest Protestant church in Germany.

Leipzig’s Architectural Symphony: Capturing Cityscapes

From Berlin, another random glance at the departure board led me to Leipzig. This city, with its rich cultural heritage, proved to be a treasure trove for an artist. The feeling of discovery, like uncovering a hidden melody in the city’s architecture, filled my sketching. In many ways, it reminded me of Nuremberg, but with a university town feel.

Known as the ‘City of Heroes,’ Leipzig played a pivotal role in the peaceful revolution that led to the fall of the Berlin Wall. Walking through the city’s historic center, you’ll encounter architectural gems like the Old Town Hall and the St. Nicholas Church, where the Monday Demonstrations began. But Leipzig is also a city of creativity and innovation, with a thriving arts scene, a vibrant student population, and a reputation as a hub for independent music and design. The spirit of Johann Sebastian Bach, who spent many years in Leipzig, still permeates the city’s musical life. It’s a city that embraces its past while looking forward, a place where history and modernity coexist in a dynamic and engaging way.

Leipzig Market Square: A Vibrant Hub

The vibrant atmosphere and the beautiful architecture of the surrounding buildings were a delight to sketch. The lively scene, a perfect reflection of the city’s creative spirit. Plus, it proved to be the ideal place to take a beer.

Sketch of Leipzig Market Square, showing the surrounding buildings and vibrant atmosphere.
Central hub of the city. It hosts a variety of events year-round, including a wine fair while I was sketching this.

Kaffeehaus Riquet & St. Nicholas Church: A Blend of Charm

The charming cafe and the majestic church provided a perfect blend of old-world charm and artistic inspiration. I tried to capture the feeling of the cafe’s unique style, and the church’s grandeur in the same sketch. The blending of the everyday, and the sacred.

Sketch of KAFFEEHAUS RIQUET cafe and St. Nicholas Church in Leipzig, showing the blend of cafe charm and church grandeur.
Kaffeehaus Riquet Cafe is known for its delicious coffee and pastries, and it’s also a popular spot for people-watching. The Art Nouveau Cafe has vintage decor inside and out, and from my view it stood as a nice compliment to the baroque tower of St, Nicholas Church.

Leipzig New Town Hall: Imposing Details

The imposing structure, with its intricate details and towering presence, demanded to be captured on paper. The sheer scale, a reminder of the city’s ambitious past. The sunset as I sketched, leading to a race against time – my pencil vs the daylight.

Sketch of Leipzig New Town Hall, focusing on its imposing architectural details.
‘Neues Rathaus’ in German. It has the tallest city hall tower in Germany. The motto of the original design was ‘Art nova surgit’ – a new castle emerges.

Monument to the Battle of Nations: A Colossal Tribute

The sheer scale and historical significance of the monument were breathtaking. A powerful reminder of the past, and the importance of remembrance. It was difficult to take in all the history this fairly recent building enshrined. The interior’s sense of scale easily matched the outer structure. The whole building had a grand fantasy feel.

Sketch of the Monument to the Battle of Nations in Leipzig, capturing its colossal scale.
This UNESCO World Heritage monument commemorates the Battle of Leipzig, which was one of the largest battles in history, with over half a million soldiers on the battlefield. The Battle of Leipzig was fought in 1813, and it pitted Napoleon’s French army against a coalition of European forces. It was a decisive victory for the coalition, and it helped to end the Napoleonic Wars. There were around 133,000 casualties from the four days of fighting. It is also a stark reminder how quickly politics and sides change.

Dresden’s Baroque Beauty: Artistic Discoveries

My final destination was Dresden, a city that exudes elegance and artistic flair. It felt like the perfect crescendo to my impromptu adventure, a city of artistic rebirth.

Dresden, often called the ‘Florence of the Elbe,’ is a city that has risen from the ashes with remarkable grace. Its baroque architecture, painstakingly rebuilt after the devastation of World War II, is a testament to the city’s enduring spirit and its commitment to preserving its cultural heritage.

Walking through the Zwinger Palace, you’re transported to a world of opulence and artistic splendor. The Frauenkirche, a symbol of reconciliation, stands proudly in the heart of the city, its golden dome a beacon of hope. But Dresden is more than just its architectural masterpieces; it’s a city with a vibrant arts scene, a thriving cultural life, and a welcoming atmosphere that invites you to explore its hidden corners and discover its many charms. I have sketched here before, and it always feels good to be back.

Chiaverigasse: Bridging Castle and Cathedral

The architectural brilliance of the bridge connecting the castle and cathedral was a sight to behold. I tried to capture the feeling of the bridge’s narrowness, and the grand scale of the surrounding buildings. A link between two grand structures, just like my journey, linking one city to the next.

Sketch of Chiaverigasse, Dresden, showing the bridge between Dresden Castle and Dresden Cathedral.
This bridge is a beautiful landmark that connects the two most important buildings in Dresden. This beautiful piece of baroque architecture was built in the 18th century, and restored in the mid 20th century, following the WW2 fire bombing of Dresden. You can still see the burn colours on the bridge, and adjacent buildings.

Dresden Grand Garden Palace: Serene Elegance

The serene beauty of the palace and its surrounding gardens provided a peaceful and inspiring setting for my final sketches. The quiet elegance, a fitting end to a journey of artistic discovery.

Sketch of Dresden Grand Garden Palace, capturing its serene elegance.
The palace was built in the 18th century and is a stunning example of Baroque architecture. The palace gardens are 2 km long and 1 km wide, with a loop of the perimeter that is 5 km – prefect for running, or just strolling with a sketchbook.

This journey wasn’t just about sketching; it was about embracing the unexpected – something I learnt to really appreciate on my prior Eurail Pass sketching adventure. It was about allowing chance to guide my path and discovering the hidden gems that lie off the beaten track. Each sketch became a memory, a tangible piece of my adventure, a record of a journey guided by chance. Sometimes you need to get lost, to find your way. The tools used were simple sketching pencils, pens, and colour pencils.

My sketching adventure through Eastern Germany was a testament to the power of serendipity. It was a reminder that sometimes, the best experiences are the ones we don’t plan. And as I boarded the train to return, I knew that the echoes of these cities, and the stories they held, would forever be etched in my sketchbook, and in my heart.



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